Shucking Corn

The column was published in the Capital Journal in July.

One of the general stereotypes of Africa – a reality I’ve mentioned previously in this space – is living without the main First World conveniences.

It’s true that my water supply comes from a well and that I use a battery-powered headlamp and candles to guide my nightly activities. There are no machines to clean my clothes after I’ve fallen in the mud – yes, that happens – or keep dairy products cool so they do not spoil.

But, sometimes, not having all the gadgets of America isn’t such a bad thing. In Lesotho work is often social hour.

My host father is a farmer and has several acres that he uses to grow potatoes, pumpkins, beans and, the main staple of Lesotho, corn. Because it is now winter, he recently harvested his corn, using only a cattle-drawn cart and the labor of a few men. It wasn’t a great harvest because of the season’s little rain, but he managed to bring in a few carts.

Then it was the women and children’s job to shuck the corn so the kernels can be grinded into cornmeal. The cornmeal is cooked with oil and water over a flame to create papa, the Basotho’s main meal and often eaten three times a day with vegetables and meat. A machine does the grinding, but the shucking is sheer manpower.

For a week, a flock of small children – most under the age of four – and a few women pounded husks with flat rocks until all the kernels were knocked off. They did this for hours, never seeming to mind the unending pile of work or the occasional bit that knocked them in the face.

Every so often I helped. The children, to shy to say words, showed me the proper technique of hitting the husk and laughed as I beamed in glory after shucking an entire piece.

While we worked, the women traded gossip and I made faces to the children to get them to giggle. I’d use what little Sesotho I know to say things like, “The Basotho work so hard,” and “I am working like the Basotho; I am now a Mosotho,” which would usually earn roars of laughter. And, when we didn’t have anything to say, we sang sweet songs to pass the time.

There are machines in the developed world that can do this kind or work, and do it much faster. However, in Lesotho, efficiency is not a priority. A bulky machine, most likely too expensive for my village, would take away the simplicity of sitting and enjoying the company of others. It would remove that social element, which is far more important than the time consumed to do the task.

There are many more productive things that I could have been doing than hitting husks of corn with a rock, but not more meaningful. Doing this work, along with bloody knuckles, I gained sweet memories and the understanding that life slowed down, enjoyed each task at a time, is powerfully fulfilling.

Going Backwards

Despite that there are more noticeable wrinkles around my eyes and mouth, Peace Corps has this funny quirk of reversing time.

Some days I think like a 16 year old. Why hasn’t she responded to the message I sent five minutes ago? Did I say something to make her angry? I bet I did. I probably ruined this friendship forever because of my giant mouth. Whatever. I don’t care that much. I really don’t need her as a friend. Oh, but I do. Why hasn’t she called me?

Some days my face looks like a 13 year old. Come to think of it, the last time I had this many pimples and my hair looked this awkward I was 13.

Some days my knees and hands look like that of a 10 year old. Bruises, scrapes and scars as if I still believed that I was invincible and it was really is OK to sit on my friend’s handlebars while flying down the largest hill in our neighborhood. Too bad these marks come from stupid stuff like wiping out in the mud in front of the entire village.

But, on the best of days, I have the spirit of a 7 year old. Yes, to all adventures and anything that seems a bit scary. Not caring what others think about me and dancing and singing in the street because it moves me.  Wearing mismatched clothes because it is comfortable and warm. And, you know what, I can be anything and do anything I want. All I have to do is dream it, and follow every cliché Mr. Rogers offers.

 

 

YOP – June: Finding my present

Walking home from school Wednesday, I reflected on the day’s events. It had been the usual work frustrations and breakthroughs. Some projects seemed hopeful, others hopeless. I tight-walked across the rope between optimism and frustration all day, but at the end of the day my spirits were high. It’s just going to be like that sometimes, I said as I walked my usual path home.

After several days of cold rain, the sky was bright blue. The slightly warmer sun seemed to shed a stage light on the village, making it appear new and more beautiful than I’ve ever seen before. The daily sites of my commute stop me, although unchanged from than any other day. Something about this day seemed fresh and exhilarating. The women calling out to each other as they washed clothes against the mountain backdrop, still sprinkled with snow from three weeks ago. Men gathered around the football pitch, playfully tossing the ball back and forth with sharp kicks as others cheered on.

At one point I couldn’t draw myself away from a group of kids playing. The children, the same ones I see every day, were playing a game with a few dirt-filled polish containers on a hopscotch-like board etched in the soft brown ground. I had seen them play this game before, and even joined in one day, but something about their amusement memorized me. I stopped and stared. I watched each of their faces and youthful movements. I pretended that I knew what they were saying and cheered them on as they made assumingly successful moves. Why did I always rush to get past them? Why couldn’t I let whatever it is that I think I need to do right after school to be and enjoy this very special moment? Kids being kids, in the purest of ways.

Finally I decided to turn home but couldn’t get there. My house lays part way down the dissension into a valley and you can see the other side from the road, near our compound’s entrance. On the other side is a prairie like landscape with rolling hills and six trees in a singular line. The trees seem like they do not belong, alone and exposed by the flatness. Yet, they are calming and reassuring. In this crazy thoughtful state, they begged me to pay them attention. So I sat just outside of the fence to our compound and stared across and into the valley. The moment was so calm and spontaneous and I decided to use it for my daily meditation and prayer.

During this period of enlightenment, I was fasting. Last September, shortly before leaving for Lesotho, I did a juice fast and really enjoyed it. It was my first fast and, although it was difficult, I liked the sense of purifying myself, shoving out the bad and making way for the good. I decided that it would be a good time, physically and mentally, for another.

The last one was a juice fast and seven days. Well, I don’t have a blender or an income to buy that much fresh produce from the grocery store, so I decided to do a shorter one with one broth meal a day and lots of tea and lemon water. I paired it with heavy meditation and prayer and lots of journaling.

My hunger pains roared since the first day, but I was never hungry. Food was on my mind, but I didn’t need it to satisfy my days. Instead I conquered meetings, planning sessions and tutoring appointments. I felt strong, invigorated on an empty stomach. 

Much of my centeredness came through my meditation and prayer, which has been focused on presence. I asked my mind and heart to be still so that I could enjoy each day and spend all I had in it. What I found was a productive, happy me. I took time to look up at people when I greeted them. I explored into my Sesotho in ways I hadn’t before. I didn’t hesitate at any moment; I just jumped in.

My thoughts dived deeper into the meaning of presence and mine here in Lesotho.

What if I took that counselor job at the Montana Christian camp out of college instead of deciding to look for a reporting position?

What if I had stayed in Idaho?

What if I had never started The Post? What if I kept with it?

What if I had taken one of the several reporting jobs offered to me?

What if Peace Corps Niger hadn’t been evacuated?

Would I be here now? No. If I would have reversed my decision in each of those scenarios, I honestly believe that I would not be sitting in a hut, listening to the cows come in for the night. Yes, my life would have been different. Would have it been better? It doesn’t matter.

This is my present.

Not all days in this country are filled with joy or reassurance. Sometimes I do wonder what if and have to talk myself into staying. However, when I actually let go and live each moment to moment, knowing the good will replace the bad if I hold on longer and not worry about the future until it comes, there is so much beauty to be found and the notion that I live in Africa never gets realer. In the present, I am coming to learn, is filled with the greatest satisfaction. It’s here that I see my life and every decision I’ve made to this point a blessing. It’s here, in this moment and in this country, a remarkable destiny, that I smile at children, at trees and the idea that I am truly happy.

The post office

My mother is pretty awesome at the mail.

Rarely do I go to the post office and not find something from her. She writes letters, but she also sends cute greeting cards and print outs from Yahoo! News that she thinks I would like. Nearly each month she sends me a package full of American sweets, random things I can’t get here or afford on my Peace Corps budget and issues of “People”, which I never be caught reading at home but devour here.

Like I said, she is a mail rock star. I like to think her and the post office guy have a first-name relationship. He probably knows the Lesotho postal code by heart, because I can’t imagine many of the other 13,000 residents in the small South Dakotan town ship packages to Africa that often. But, I could be wrong.

She is not the only one, though. This whole experience has strengthened friendships, reignited old ones and allowed casual ones to become more. I still have regular access to Facebook and email, but it’s through letters that I feel most connected to people at home.

The post office is located in another village, about a 75-minute walk. I usually go when I know there is a package or have to go there for work or shopping. I put my headphones in and zone out. It takes a few hours so I have to make it a half-day event and plan it ahead of time. Usually, on my return trips, I stop for a beer at the lodge while I read letters and hold back tears.

Even though they are long, I enjoy my walks to the post office and taking in the simple, slow paced life of the Basotho around me. There are the girls getting water at the creek, the bo-me selling fat cakes along the road, the bo-ntate taking sheep to the field and the gentle wind across the corn fields. Blue skies, puffy clouds, singing birds and stillness. I get caught up in a feeling that this is only temporary, but my goodness it is wonderful.

The post office can be hit or miss. In Niger it seemed like every time I would go there it was closed or everyone else had packages but me. In Lesotho I’ve had some misfortunes but I’ve learned the schedule and have a system worked out. Also, I’ve learned to calm the fruit juice down. Not here this time, it will be next time. Or the next time.

The post office guy and I, like my mom and her po guy, are ol’ buddies. The post office is located in the same building as a branch of Standard Lesotho Bank. We call it PostBank. There are two windows – one for mail, one for money – and I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone else at the post office portion.  In fact I’ve rarely hear of Basotho using the mail, but I know some do because I share a box with the school and pick up its mail whenever I go.

The PO man is very friendly and I like to impress him with the American cities that I am mailing letters to that day. Apparently, Midland, S.D., is not at all exciting but Brooklyn, N.Y., is, which I find strange because they are basically the same.

He also speaks very good English. One of the things I do like about Lesotho compared to Niger is that I can handle the tricky stuff in a language I am comfortable speaking. Same goes for banks and phone companies.

Post Day, which is ALWAYS a great day, is hyped up with the thought of packages. On Package Day I like to make sure my house is clean and that all my chores are completed. I want nothing to disturb my opening the box and playing with whatever is inside of it. Once the package is opened, all bets are off for the rest of the day.

These trips to the post office are really special to me. I enjoy greeting Basotho along the way and seeing my main man the PO Guy. I see more of the country than I do when I am working or in a taxi. And then I am filled with love reading news from home or ripping open bags of candy that my mom found on sale and wanted to send because she knows it’s my favorite.

Someday I will be back in American and it will be perfectly acceptable to send an email to that old friend or hand off a birthday gift at a party. I’ll be able to whip through the post office in five minutes and won’t say much to the person on the other side of the window. In those moments I will think about my adventures to the post office in Africa and smile. I’ll miss Lesotho and the chance it gave me to slow down and experience these everyday movements to the fullest.

 

 

Sports Day

A recent edition of my column for The Capital Journal.

t was nearing dusk as our worn bus tore through the low lands, trying to reach our village before all light was gone. It had been a long weekend – my school’s students had competed in a two-day sports competition and lost every match they played. Still, through the exhaustion and sweat-soaked clothes, they were dancing and singing like champions.

Just the chance to compete was worth celebrating.

At this past weekend sports events, my school joined a handful of others to compete in several events, however we only managed teams for boys’ soccer and netball, which is similar to basketball but without dribbling and only for girls. In each game they were overmatched. Every team had bigger players, shinier uniforms and larger cheering sections. My students looked like underdogs from those inspirational sports movies, yet with no Hollywood influence, they were not the Cinderella story.

But the losses seemed to barely faze them. Their faces flinched for a second after the final whistle but soon their were clapping and smiling.

As I’ve said before in this space, students in Lesotho live a hard life. In addition to their studies, many of them are responsible for much of the housework, such as cooking, washing and caring for animals. Many have lost a parent or both and have to travel long distances by foot to and from school each day. They get little time to be teenagers compared to their peers in America. Yet, scheduled sports time is their two hours a week to run around and forget about whatever else challenges them.

In a small way I can relate.

In the third grade a few girls at an after school activity were teasing me for having a “pillow stomach.” I went home that night and cried and dreaded each time I had to go back to that activity. The next year I asked my parents if I could swap those lessons for something else, swimming.

My confidence jumped when I joined the swim team. I could wash away bullies and school problems in the pool. For 10 years, swimming allowed me to be myself and have fun. It encouraged me to try other sports, including cross country which led to a life-long passion for running. It sprouted a courage within that would allow me to take big leaps later on in life, such as join the Peace Corps.

Watching my students compete reminded me all of my swimming and cross country meets. I felt awful that they couldn’t muster a win, but I usually didn’t either. Still, those competitions are some of favorite memories. Doing it was enough.

We often judge ourselves by the numbers of wins and losses, yet we forget that the real gift comes from the participation. Those two days were the happiest I’ve ever seen my students. They didn’t care if they lost 9-0. They were getting a break from life.

With half our trip left I joined their singing and dancing. Maybe my students won’t gain the same things that I did from sports but I know they got something, the main idea of athletics – the chance to have fun.