Tag Archives: Peace Corps Lesotho Blogs

The launch of Taxi Tales and the second closest I’ve come to dying

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The Peace Corps uniform – usually consisting of worn khakis or Old Navy skirts and some type of sport sandals – has several badges of honor. One for the longest amount of time between showers, another for the sickness that forced remnants out both ends. You earn merits for overcoming work frustration, fashioning a neat shelf out of limited materials and eating food that doesn’t seem edible. And then there is public transportation.

Every Peace Corps Volunteer across the world since 1961 has a taxi story. The long waits, rollercoaster-like roads and crammed vehicles with passengers that refuse to open the window are as much a PCV rite of passage as crapping your pants.

The bulk of my insane moments in Lesotho happen on a taxi. From nearly dying to being use as attraction for potential customers to drunk men passing out on me, the taxi ride is equally frustrating and hilarious. I decided to start a new feature for the blog, Taxi Tales, where I will recount some of these moments in hopes of shedding a different aspect of my life here in Lesotho. I do not mean any harm with these stories and would hate to offend the Basotho, but some weird stuff goes down in these 15-passenger vans enough to make me almost miss a oil changes, car payments and the $40 a week major oil companies steal from me. Almost.

So, for my first Taxi Tale I will talk about the second closest I ever came to dying.

We had been at our sites for just a week and, despite being on the three-month lockdown, we were allowed a few days off for Christmas. A group of us, mostly volunteers located in the north, decided to meet in Katse, the home to a fellow volunteer and a very beautiful dam.

Hannah and I hoped to take a bus, but as newbies, we didn’t quite understand the workings of the public transportation system, especially on a holiday when many were traveling, and missed the bus. So, we took a string of taxis from one village to another, hoping we would finally get on the one that took us to where we wanted to be. Ranks were full of people trying to get home for the holidays and we were outmatched by the bustles. Conductors, seeing our confusion, would ask us where we wanted to go and, after our reply, would point us in the direction of a car. We’d get in the taxi, wait for it to fill, hold our belongings in uncomfortable ways and then realize we were only going a ways down the road when the taxi pulled into another rank and said we had to get a yet another taxi.

After the fourth taxi, we finally found the one that would take us all the way to Katse. We were getting nervous because it was already late in the afternoon and we needed to be at our destination by sundown. There was a long line of people wanting to get in the same small vehicle we did but we were able to sweet talk the driver into two places in the back.

Nestled in the back of the taxi, the car slowly pulled out of the rank, having a hard time even getting over speed bumps. Hannah and I looked at each other. Something doesn’t feel right.

The first hour of the trip was fine, despite the driver going faster around the corners than we preferred. We got to a village and they made us all get it out for a minute. Once leaving this village we wouldn’t see another for two hours. The landscape of the drive changed. No more rural villages with bo-‘me’ holding shopping bags on their heads or children standing along side the roads. On one side the earth extended high and the other it extended low. To reassure us was many warning signs with cars falling off the cliff.

The drivers’ speed and care did not correct itself for the dangerous terrain. We zoomed around the mountains as if go karts on a slick track. Our nerves started to rattle. We did not feel safe. The climbs and turns were endless but I tried to remain calm thinking we couldn’t have that much further to go. I was wrong.

A nasty climb met as after a turn around the mountain. Our untrusting vehicle started to attempt it, but not even half way, it stalled. It started to roll backwards and downwards, right for that corner which would be come a drop off.

Hannah and I start screaming and were half way out the window when other passengers too started yell. The car was picking up momentum and I envisioned our white van tumbling down the mountainside.

Much to my amazement the driver was able to stop the car and hold it in place with a few rocks. We all got out and waited while a few men tried to put the car is some working order. Sundown was coming fast but there was no place for us to go. We were stranded on a mountain.

Fixed, they called everyone back into the car but Hannah and I were reluctant. We didn’t feel safe. The car continued to sputter up the hill, attempting and even bigger one, and Hannah and I decided either we’d stay in that car or we’d live to see Christmas.

Days before two volunteers died in a car accident in Mozambique. The news flashed through both Hannah’s and mine mind and we didn’t want to be next. We screamed at the driver to let us out and said we didn’t want to go further. The other passengers looked at us crazy. You will get raped out here or hit by a car. We didn’t care. We needed to get out.

At about that time the car stalled again but the driver stopped it before the visions of our fiery death came back. It was now 5 p.m. We had maybe two hours of sunlight. We needed to get to Katse, but we had no vehicle and no idea where we were. Some private cars passed us by but we positioned on a hill and they weren’t going to stop. I started to tear up and a very sweet Mosotho lady, Angela I think, tried to calm us down and promised us we would make it to Katse that night.

We needed a plan and we needed one now. “I think we should call Peace Corps,” I told Hannah. And right as the words came out another van, our rescue taxi, came up the hill.

Still not convinced this one would die too, Hannah and I quietly said prayers to ourselves (“Are you praying right now?” “Yeah.” “Me too.”) until we were out of the most mountainous  spot and reached villages. We made it to Katse, met up with our friends at the lodge and calmed our nerves with beer as we retold the story.

We took an alternative route on the way home. Although our life wasn’t almost compromised, the bus did break down and we were stalled for two hours. Later a woman leaned over us to puke out the window.

Now, Hannah and I have a new rule. We no longer take sketchy taxis and we no longer sit in the back of a taxi together.

Give ‘em a break

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It had been nearly an hour since we walked to the road and impatience was showing – James was throwing rocks, I was singing to .38 Special and Hannah was tangled in a glaze. The only taxi to come our way was crammed with people and we were forced to wait. Wait, wait.

It was just after 11. It’s often a two-hour trek between Hannah’s and my village. Once in a taxi from her village I have to stop at a junction, where I’ve waited an hour before, and find another taxi to my village (PS, Hannah is my closest neighbor, if that tells you how far out there I am). I had hoped to get there before the post office closes at 1 p.m. to pick up a package. I have 1-9 win-loss record with the post offices and banks in Africa so I was sure I wouldn’t make it. Then, coming down the hill nearly a mile a way, there was a white box-shaped taxi. Two, actually.

They both hit our standing spot at the same time and as I walked to the emptier one the conductor of the first waved him off, basically saying, “These are mine.” I tried to exclaim back that the other one was less full, meaning more comfortable for us, but he didn’t have it. The car zoomed off, and the three of us were to squeeze into a 15-seat van that already had 14 passengers.

I was angry. “You are greedy,” I snarled at him. Hannah and I shared a seat while James had to stand, which is far from legal and safe. “O batla chelete haholo,” I hissed, which means “You want money too much.”

Less than 800 meters later, the taxi stops and at least four passengers got off and we each had a seat for the duration of our trip. Also, I got another ride quickly at the junction and made it to the post office at 12:45 p.m.

Hannah gently reminded me that if I had more patience I wouldn’t have felt the need to blow up at the taxi conductor, which I felt bad about later. Yes, I know patience is practically a synonym of Peace Corps, but it’s sometimes hard to get past the surface of situations and realize there is something deeper.

There is one particular person in my village that I’ve been struggling with. I often find this person lazy, unmotivated and careless and have already deemed him worthless to my service efforts. It’s frustrating because this villager is one that is supposed to help and guide me and I was let down. (Sorry for the vagueness but I want to protect the party involved.)

One Saturday morning this villager was passing my house and saw me outside washing dishes and decided to pay a visit. Our chat was friendly, even nice. We talked about several parts of work and life and a piece of information was revealed that changed my outlook. I had been judging this person, looking only on the outside, and didn’t realize what was actually going on. Instantly, I was ashamed at all the curse words I said about this person under my breath and to other volunteers. I thought I understood, but I really didn’t.

It seems like I often react to the first sign of trouble and I fail to recognize that there could be more to the story. There is always more to the story. I do need more patience and I need to learn to give people a break. My lack of patience and hot temper are two areas in my life that I am working on, and struggling with, here in Lesotho.

Yet, the other lesson is that I need to give myself a break. So I yelled at the taxi conductor and it didn’t feel good. I’ll know next time. And when I see the villager again I will have a new respect for that person and try to focus on the good things done despite the situation, not the bad.

The amazing thing about Peace Corps is that you don’t learn more about the world, you learn more about people. I am truly learning.

Packing advice for new Peace Corps Volunteers – Part 2

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If you didn’t have enough of my 2,000+ dribble on packing yesterday, then you are in luck. I’ve got lots more today, and this time some actual suggestions.

Hope it’s helpful, if not, I can’t give you back your time. Maybe you should be more cautious next time.

On to the suggestions …

Luggage and bags

This is one of the areas where it is important to go for quality. As soon as I got my invitation, I knew I wanted a large travel backpack. You can buy these online, but I recommend going to a store so you can try them on and make sure they are comfortable. I’ve heard some big outdoor stores even measure you so they can find the perfect pack. I chose a large Osprey bag that was about $200. Although it is a bit big, I love this bag and it is perfect for trips of more than few days. I used it a lot in the U.S. as well.

To carry the rest of my stuff across the ocean, I used a large suitcase that I’ve had for a few years. It isn’t anything fancy but did the job.

I also have a smaller Jansport bag that I used in college for weekend trips or carrying stuff to school. Sometimes I would like something in between the large and small backpack, but I get along just fine.

While in Lesotho, my mom sent me these great reusable shopping bags that fold up into small pouches. They are great for shopping, especially if you are going to West Africa where they have open markets.

For a purse, I brought a Merrel over-the-shoulder bag that was a gift. It’s super durable and I like having something I can wear rather than carry. I also have a clutch, another gift, for storing money and debt cards. It has a clasp that I can attach to an inside of another bag and keeps it from being lifted or left on a taxi.

Shoes

No matter where you are serving you are going to want a durable pair of sandals. In Africa you do A LOT of walking and need some comfortable shoes and, for me, flip-flops don’t do it. You should bring a pair to wear around the house or for something to slip on quickly, but I suggest investing in a nice pair. This is where those discounts come in handy; most shoe companies on the Peace Corps Wiki site offer up to 50 percent off. I didn’t know this for Niger and bought a pair of Chacos at the full price. But, having fallen in love with them, I bought a second pair with the discount.

Of all my shoes, I wear the Chacos the most. They were great for the sand in West Africa and now the rocky roads in Lesotho. Other people enjoy Tevas and Keen. These sandals are really a staple of the Peace Corps wardrobe.

You will also need a pair of nice shoes for swear-in and formal functions. I don’t really have anything, but was gifted black Merrel sliders that I wear to school and other nicer places. I also wear my Chacos to these events, but I’ve been ridiculed for my choice of footwear so don’t blame me if someone makes a remark about your lac of fashion.

If you are a runner, bring your shoes. Lots of volunteers run and it’s a good way to work through stress. Double check with current volunteers to make sure it is culturally acceptable, especially for women. I ran in both Niger and Lesotho and didn’t have many problems.

Clothes

You need to check with current volunteers and your invitation packet on what is acceptable. In Niger, a Muslim country, I never wore pants at site and had to always have my shoulders and knees covered. Lesotho is a bit different, but I still needed suitable clothing for school. It is CRITICAL that you bring cultural appropriate dress. You will create a lot of unnecessary problems if you have something exposed you shouldn’t. This goes for workout clothes as well. Current PCVs will also tell you what you need for the weather. In Lesotho, you need winter and summer clothes because it’s hot and cold.

Also current volunteers can give you an insight on what you can find in country. In Niger, they recommended not bringing a lot because most volunteers end up having clothes made. I didn’t follow that brought way too much clothes that I didn’t wear. Getting clothes made is super cheap and it allows you to blend in. I think that is true for a lot of West Africa countries. In Lesotho, that isn’t so much the case. I have one traditional dress, but wear the stuff I brought most days. If the current PCVs say to not worry about clothes too much, listen to them.

You will be going on vacation and having get togethers with other volunteers so be sure to include some American clothing. I never wear jeans at site, but always when I visit other volunteers. It’s nice to throw them on with a tank top and feel like myself every now and then. I also wish I had brought a few vacation dresses as everything I have is mostly work related. One Lesotho PCV brought this beautiful black dress that she only pulls out for special occasions with other volunteers. I wish I had something like that.

Kitchen stuff

You will be give an moving-in allowance to buy all of your necessary home stuff, but there are a few things that I am grateful I brought from home, including large cutting knives and an array of spices. Depending on where you are going, there are some things you can’t find. In Niger I couldn’t find a lot of spices, so it was nice to have my own. And having American knives is nice because ones here aren’t as good.

Many volunteers swear by drink packets, such as Crystal Light, to hide things floating in their water or hide the not-so-pleasant taste of well water. I am not a fan and prefer my water non-sugary but you might not have a lot of options for soda or juice and these can add some allure to warm water.

Both times I brought Ziploc bags and plastic storage containers. They are nice for packing things like shampoo or batteries and then you get to use them after. Some of that stuff you can buy in country, but when you are on a limited budget they may not be a justifiable purchase.

Bedding

I brought a pillow to both countries because I like sleeping with a pillow. During training in Niger, we were given a mattress and a bed frame, so if you didn’t have a pillow well then you didn’t have one. In Lesotho we had a nicer set up but I like having my pillow to travel with. The first time I just brought one off my bed, but the second I bought a camping pillow and appreciate it’s ability to fold.

Sheets are also another luxury.  I recommend non-fitted and cotton. If you are short on packing space, there is a good chance that you can buy one in your country. I raided my mother’s linen closet and found an old sheet that does the trick.

Sleeping bags are also a great thing to have, especially when you visit other volunteers. I bought a warm weather bag for Niger and a cold weather bag for Lesotho. If you are going somewhere with cool winters, get a cold weather bag. Mine has been great and it was half off thanks to the Coleman discount.

Some volunteers opt for sleeping pads and liners; I have neither. The liner is good for warmer weather and the pad makes a concrete floor a little more comfortable. I personally didn’t want to deal with the hassle of carry those extra items (I did bring a yoga mat and swap that in for a sleeping pad) but I can sleep anywhere. If you may want these items but don’t want to drag them across the ocean, check with other volunteers because these are the type of items they are looking to sell before returning home.

Bath and toiletries

For both services I brought a terry cloth towel, which is fine but clunky to carry around. Many volunteers opt for camping towels, such as the Sea to Summit Drylight Microfiber towel. While on vacation in South Africa a friend and I can across these towels at a travel store She had just lost hers and wanted to replace it My towel acquired quite the stench, thanks to the ocean and daily showers, and I was tired of finding room for the dumb thing so I decided to splurge and get one. It was 150 rand, or $18.75. In the States they are a bit more, but this towel changed my life. It dries quick, it dries me quick and it doesn’t take up a lot of space. If I were redoing my packing, I would go with this towel from the start.

You will be able to buy shampoo, conditioner and soap wherever you are, but if you have a preference for a certain kind bring it. It’s also fun to have nice smelling soap and lotion for days when you want to feel normal.

This next suggestion is for the ladies, so fellas I’ll see you in the next ’graph. In Niger some girls mentioned the Diva Cup for that time of the month and so I decided to get one for Lesotho, again using the discount. It is really awesome, especially if you are going to be on a bus for 14 hours. It takes some getting used to, but it’s much better to have than lugging around “supplies.”

Electronics

A lot of invitees wonder about computers: Yes. Having a computer is great for many reasons. You will have reports to write, and although you can access Peace Corps computers, it is nice to do it on your own. You may be able to hit up Internet cafes or, in Lesotho, we have modems, which are slow, bug perfect for checking different accounts. Even though I don’t have electricity in my house, I can access it daily and charge my computer for a movie every once and a while.

Unless you are going to a country with Peace Corps hostels, they aren’t many left, there will likely be no central location for media. In Niger we had hostels stocked with DVDs but in Lesotho everyone has hard drives. They load ‘em with music, movies and TV shows and then share media with other volunteers. My mom won a 2 Terobyte drive at a Christmas party and allowed me to use it, but you may not need that much space. The Passports are pretty common and give PCVs lots of space. And, if you want to make friends with the current PCVs right away, bring lots of new movies and latest episodes of popular TV shows. They will love you. (If you are reading this and preparing to come to Lesotho, I will bake you a cake if you bring latest episodes of How I Met Your Mother, Glee or Parks and Recreation.)

If you listen to your iPod daily bring it. It’s so nice to have music every morning to get me going and I use it for running or drowning out Famo music on taxies. I have battery-operated speakers that my mom sent to me while I was in Niger that are great for when other volunteers are visiting. One PCV used a iTrip to connect to the local radio and that worked great too.

EReaders and iPads are becoming more common among Peace Corps Volunteers. I didn’t have anything like that for Niger, but was gifted a Kindle before I left for Lesotho. Since my birthday was two days before staging, I received lots of Amazon gift cards and loaded it up. It is amazinjmg. You will read a lot and it’s nice not to have to haul, to country and around, a bunch of books you’ve been meaning to read. I don’t have an iPad, but those who brought them love them. Your access to wireless may be occasional at best (hardly at all in Lesotho) but if you use it for games, movies and books it would be worth it.

A good camera is essential and you should bring one depending on what photos mean to you. Many bring really nice DSRLs, but remember that I said things happen and it may not be functional after two years. If you value quality pictures over the possibility of shelling out for another, bring it. If not, get a nice point and shoot. I’ve wanted a DSRL for a long time but decided Africa wasn’t the time to make the splurge. So a really nice sales associate at Best Buy helped me pick out a Sony Cybershot. I love it and it takes good photos for what I need, which is posting on Facebook.

Phones are a big part of the Peace Corps life. Some volunteers will get their phones unlocked in America and then bring them to Africa and purchase the SIM here. I am not clever enough to figure that out so I just bought a phone in country. If you are coming to South Africa, Black Berry’s are big (I feel like the rest of the world is over the BB phase, but I could be wrong) along with the phrase, “BBM me.” If you are into that and have one, you can find out away, Google has great answers, to unlock it and then bring it. I personally didn’t want to deal with that and bought a crappy Internet capable phone that works just fine and can handle all of my inevitable dropping.

Random things

There is a bunch of smaller things that I brought that I really like having. Instead of giving you a 400-word composition on each item and why it is great, I’ll use a handy dandy list to make it nice and sweet.

Things I use almost daily:

-       Umbrella

-       Hemp

-       Duct tape

-       Push pins

-       Safety pins

-       Paper clips

-       Markets

-       GOOD pens

-       Envelopes

-       Notebook paper

-       Stickers

-       Batteries in all sizes

Sentimental Stuff

The host country natives and your new Peace Corps family will LOVE to see photos of loved ones back at home. But, to save space, don’t worry about albums and take the loose photos. You can decorate your house with them later on.

Journals. Lots of journals. You’ll want to have lots of memories of this time in your life and you need a place to record all those little and big moments. I brought a few and then have them sent to me when I think I am running out.

Bring things that will make you smile after a long day. A piece of art or your favorite coffee mug. These little things are nice to have once and a while and make you feel like you when everything else is so foreign.

If you are still reading this, congratulations. I am not sure I am still reading it. Anyway, if you have any further suggestions leave them in the comments. I will also answer any questions you have below or feel free to email me at heathermmangan@gmail.com and I will reply when I can.

Happy packing and good luck. You are in for a crazy, but magical, two years.

Happy International Peace Corps Day!

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Every morning I walk through a pile of horse crap to get to my latrine, which is infested with insects I can’t identify.

I barely remember the last time I took a shower or the actual color of my feet.

Last week, a drunk man passed out on me in a taxi. A day before, I was on a taxi that came to a screeching halt when the wheel and axle flew off.

At least a dozen times a day I catch someone staring at me, and not just a casual glance but a full-on, mouth-open stare that often lasts as long as I am in the persons peripheral.

A rooster wakes me up each morning and, thanks to the dozens of animals that roam my yard, my roommates are hundreds of flies.

The other day I wanted to do a track workout and shared an inside joke with myself, both signs that my sanity may have walked out the door.

Still, this is the best job I’ve ever had.

When I landed in Philadelphia for staging of my Niger service, I was filled with intense emotions. As I passed through the terminals to get to baggage claim, I came across a poster for Peace Corps. “Never start a sentence with ‘I wish I would have …’” it said. It was a sign that I was on the right path.

Despite all that I been through with Peace Corps, I’ve never been more proud to belong to an organization. The PCV behind my name means more to me than anything else I’ve accomplished in my life and it’s something no one can take from me, not even Al-Qaeda.

Within my 10 and half combined (Niger and Lesotho) months in Peace Corps, I met incredible Americans and Africans. I’ve learned three languages and how to do daily chores without the conveniences of modern technology. I’ve been more engaged with the world and myself. Mostly, I feel like I am contributing something to humanity.

It’s not easy and some days do end in tears, but I’ve never had substantial doubt that I shouldn’t be here. This is right.

Today is International Peace Corps Day and I’m blessed to be one of the lucky few to call themselves a Peace Corps Volunteers. To all of my fellow PCVs and RPCVs, you are an amazing group and I’m humbled to be included with you. You make the world better.

Blogging in Lesotho

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Dear readers,

We had  have a great and eventful ride, haven’t we? In the 14+ months that I’ve been dumping my error-ridden emotional dribble on to these page, the craziest year of my life developed, making for some semi-interesting posts. Blogging has been really good to me. It’s connected me to people all over the world, many more than I ever imagined would read this blog which means someone other than my mother (love you, mom).  It’s also allowed me to keep track of this influential time in case that book contract every homes. (ha!). But, I can tell that, at least with my reporting writing) I’ve developed as a writer (still not wonderful).

As I prepare for Lesotho, I am looking at a way to develop it more. More pictures and video, sure, but I always say that don’t I? I want to put more of my writing on here as well an make it Heather Mangan-inclusive site.

Before I go crazy, does anyone out there having any suggestions for the blog? Should I incorporate more life/idea posts or stick to the Peace Corps stuff? In the end, it’s my decision but I love feedback (typing with a smile.)

Also, don’t be surprised by more visual changes. I get bored easily.

Ta ta for now,

H