The post office

My mother is pretty awesome at the mail.

Rarely do I go to the post office and not find something from her. She writes letters, but she also sends cute greeting cards and print outs from Yahoo! News that she thinks I would like. Nearly each month she sends me a package full of American sweets, random things I can’t get here or afford on my Peace Corps budget and issues of “People”, which I never be caught reading at home but devour here.

Like I said, she is a mail rock star. I like to think her and the post office guy have a first-name relationship. He probably knows the Lesotho postal code by heart, because I can’t imagine many of the other 13,000 residents in the small South Dakotan town ship packages to Africa that often. But, I could be wrong.

She is not the only one, though. This whole experience has strengthened friendships, reignited old ones and allowed casual ones to become more. I still have regular access to Facebook and email, but it’s through letters that I feel most connected to people at home.

The post office is located in another village, about a 75-minute walk. I usually go when I know there is a package or have to go there for work or shopping. I put my headphones in and zone out. It takes a few hours so I have to make it a half-day event and plan it ahead of time. Usually, on my return trips, I stop for a beer at the lodge while I read letters and hold back tears.

Even though they are long, I enjoy my walks to the post office and taking in the simple, slow paced life of the Basotho around me. There are the girls getting water at the creek, the bo-me selling fat cakes along the road, the bo-ntate taking sheep to the field and the gentle wind across the corn fields. Blue skies, puffy clouds, singing birds and stillness. I get caught up in a feeling that this is only temporary, but my goodness it is wonderful.

The post office can be hit or miss. In Niger it seemed like every time I would go there it was closed or everyone else had packages but me. In Lesotho I’ve had some misfortunes but I’ve learned the schedule and have a system worked out. Also, I’ve learned to calm the fruit juice down. Not here this time, it will be next time. Or the next time.

The post office guy and I, like my mom and her po guy, are ol’ buddies. The post office is located in the same building as a branch of Standard Lesotho Bank. We call it PostBank. There are two windows – one for mail, one for money – and I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone else at the post office portion.  In fact I’ve rarely hear of Basotho using the mail, but I know some do because I share a box with the school and pick up its mail whenever I go.

The PO man is very friendly and I like to impress him with the American cities that I am mailing letters to that day. Apparently, Midland, S.D., is not at all exciting but Brooklyn, N.Y., is, which I find strange because they are basically the same.

He also speaks very good English. One of the things I do like about Lesotho compared to Niger is that I can handle the tricky stuff in a language I am comfortable speaking. Same goes for banks and phone companies.

Post Day, which is ALWAYS a great day, is hyped up with the thought of packages. On Package Day I like to make sure my house is clean and that all my chores are completed. I want nothing to disturb my opening the box and playing with whatever is inside of it. Once the package is opened, all bets are off for the rest of the day.

These trips to the post office are really special to me. I enjoy greeting Basotho along the way and seeing my main man the PO Guy. I see more of the country than I do when I am working or in a taxi. And then I am filled with love reading news from home or ripping open bags of candy that my mom found on sale and wanted to send because she knows it’s my favorite.

Someday I will be back in American and it will be perfectly acceptable to send an email to that old friend or hand off a birthday gift at a party. I’ll be able to whip through the post office in five minutes and won’t say much to the person on the other side of the window. In those moments I will think about my adventures to the post office in Africa and smile. I’ll miss Lesotho and the chance it gave me to slow down and experience these everyday movements to the fullest.

 

 

Ntate Peter

My village is small, around 1,000 people. It’s a 40-minute walk off the main road and, despite being in the Maseru District, it’s takes about two hours on public taxi’s reach the nation’s capital. For all intense and purposes, it’s rural.

Even so I am not the only white person in my village. And the other is not South African. Instead he is a westerner like myself.

Peter’s beard and hair are a thick white and he appears much taller when sitting. He’s the only person in the village who calls me Heather because, with his defiant British accent, it’s easier to say than Kenneuoe.

I’ve seen Peter along the road and he’s offered me lifts to the closest point where our paths start to divide. I shop in his store, which is near the 12 acres his home sits on. But I never had a real conversation with him. He’s invited me over for coffee but I’ve always been too nervous to actually go. It’s OK to pop in unannounced with the Basotho, but I knew Peter was raised on similar manners as I and that we just don’t do that in our respective countries.

When a former Peace Corps volunteer was trying to reach Peter and his wife Brenda and sent a letter inquiring about the couple, I finally had a solid reason to visit other than it was casually mentioned one time.

One Saturday afternoon, without thinking about it too much so I didn’t work up nerves that may cause me from going, I went over to his house. The house is a fortress enclosed by mystical tress and locked off with a stonewall fence that expands the entire length of the property. There are several small houses that sit on the property, the main one currently under renovations, and a herd man pointed me to the right house when I came knocking.

Brenda welcomed me right in as Peter was stationed in the corner watching a football match. Liverpool won, or they lost, I can’t quite remember but he seemed displeased. I gave him the letter and the pair delighted in hearing from their friends – an elderly couple who served in the village in 1997-99. They had kept in touch all these years and Peter had a labeled binder full of letters to prove it to me.

Once the delivering of the letter was done I wasn’t sure if it would be rude to stay or to leave, then Brenda offered me a glass of juice, very typical of Basotho culture, and I stayed.

Peter is quite the storyteller. In an hour’s time we traveled through several topics, he always happy to answer my questions. Sometimes I barely could get in a word, but I didn’t mind. He revealed his life and shared parts of this country I had yet to discover.

Peter came to Lesotho nearly 30 years ago, in his late 40s. He applied for a job just to get out of work for a day, but when the company seemed interested he took a closer look. It was for teaching jobs oversees and he looked through the catalogue of available positions. Lesotho, he’d never heard of it but decided to take a chance. He was offered a teaching gig at a technical college and left mother England behind.

After four years, he was promoted to acting president while they searched for a new one and stayed on a year to help indoctrinate the hiree. After that year they offered him a full scholarship to study in Bristol with full benefits, practically promising employment upon completion. He agreed and was all set to go until they discovered a glaring disqualification. At the time Peter was nearing 50 and the program did not accept students older than 45. He was out.

“I felt like no one wanted me,” he told me. So, he needed to take a look at his life and decide where to go knowing this brutal fact. He realized that he wouldn’t be a billionaire or some big mogul. The best he could do in life was to do what makes him happy and enjoy life.

He stayed in Lesotho and married Brenda, who he met while teaching and she was a student in an adjacent program. They had two children; on the day his first child was born he bought the property in our village. It was her birthday present, he said.

Both children are grown – Beatrice works in Maseru and has a young daughter while John is studying sound engineering in Cape Town (I’ve met them both and they are lovely people) – and Peter now does part-time work as an insurance adjuster while owning the shop. He looks at his life, now in his 80s, and couldn’t be happier. He owns a nice chunk of land, has a beautiful wife, two darling children and a mountain view that people in the States would pay millions to live near. He says his life is peaceful and quiet set against the stillness of village life.

Before I left Peter insisted a tour of the property, stopping to pick vegetables and fruits for me to take home – I ended up with lemons, peaches, grapefruit, corn, zucchini, basil and parsley. He walked me to the gate, sang a little tune and said he was going to clear off. I wished him a good day and walked a way with a giant smile.

Visiting Peter reminded me how blessed I am to be here. He’s right; this place is down right heavenly. You see the stars at night and there is no loud town traffic to disrupt your conversations or thoughts. And the mountains, well they cure all bad days.

Peter taught me that I don’t have to save the world or earn lots of money to be something special, I just need to live my life and have fun doing it. As I struggle to figure out who I am and what is my plan, this is a comforting lesson. Maybe just being is all I really need.

 

Normal

A few weeks ago, I was talking to a seasoned volunteer about the difficulties of village life and some of the struggles that occupied my mind. She told me that she once made a list of the things she gave up to be here and, when on bad days, she looks at the list and it makes her feel better.

It’s true that joining the Peace Corps comes with a lot of sacrifices. One of my dearest friends in the world is getting married in April and I only get to enjoy it through pictures. There are smaller moments, such as causal weekends at home or random nights out, that I miss too. But, there are smaller things as well. I gave up the ability to run to my favorite sandwich shop for lunch, watch movies on rainy days, wear shorts when I run and feeling clean. Mostly, I gave up being comfortable.

Now, I am not complaining, these are (mostly) small points compared to this incredible experience, which I wouldn’t trade for all the hot showers and veggie subs in the world. However, in this new state of living I must find some sense of normal.

The volunteer with sacrifices list is home now. When I asked her boyfriend (who is still in country) how she was doing, he said she enjoys being able to take care of herself and going to the gym. That made me realize that I do a pretty terrible job of taking care of myself here because I am so wrapped up in other emotions. I need to do more of the things I love while eating well, exercising and just being nice to myself.

A piece of advice I got in Niger was to do whatever you needed to in the morning – run six miles or dance to music as loud as your speakers would allow – to get yourself out the door. In a place where I feel constantly like an outside, I try to do my favorite things to make me happy.

A daily cup of coffee, “This American Life” in the background as I do dishes, running along the dirt road that leads out of my village, wearing my favorite necklace, meeting a friend for beers and blogging (of course) are things I enjoyed in the states and they help me feel like Heather. Even reruns of “How I Met Your Mother” and “Glee” bring some kind of comfort and feeling of home.

Slowly, I am starting to recognize this as my life for the next two years, a time frame that is truly daunting. It’s not some quick vacation or adventure, but a life and I need to treat it like that. And it’s in the smallest of moments I see the real Heather come out: singing to myself in front of a group of girls at sports and joking with the teachers.

It’s the small things that make us who we are and what we cling to when everything else is different.

Acceptance

At some point you just need to accept.

You need to accept that you will not change the world. Also, that there are many things that will not differ, regardless of your presence, and, you are the one that needs to adjust behavior and thinking.

You need to accept this isn’t a project or something you can neatly wrap up. It’s a process and, at times, it’ll kick your butt.

You need to accept that you made this decision, knowing the sacrifices it will entail, and you need to live with that.

You need to accept that with some patience and a smile you will be accepted.

You need to accept that this is your life now.

You need to accept that this isn’t about you. It never was.

You need to accept you.